I started writing this epilogue in June 2018; somehow ten months passed by without me finishing or posting it. Much has happened since then.
Confirmed: El Mercado offers the best breakfast of the tour. We ate with appreciation.
The plan: 8:30 train to Ollantaytambo where we’d get picked up, taken to pick up our luggage, then driven back to Cusco where we’d have lunch and an afternoon tour of Sacsayhuamán.
We’re going up that?
No luggage on the train to Machu Picchu; only small carryons. We packed what we needed, left our bags at K’uychi Rumi, and boarded a van (just one, a big one) back to Ollantaytambo for a more leisurely but still rushed tour.
Today’s options were:
7am departure in the van. Just one van: there were only eight of us doing today’s hike, nine with our guide, so we all fit in one van. We drove the hour to the tiny village of Quiswarani where (no surprise) several vendors spread their blankets of wares. We stretched our legs, peed, stuffed our cheeks with a giant wad of coca, and started off.
Departed Lamay for Huacahuasi, in the Lares valley.Dr. Eusebio Corazao Quintanilla has no Wikipedia entry, alas, but he is remembered in his hometown and now in Los Alamos. How many small Andean towns have a mathematician for a hero? How many towns anywhere? This was a delightful and memorable surprise.